2017 Cote Rotie Cote Brune

Even better, which is hard to believe, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Brune is pure silky and is as elegant and seamless as they come. Like the Côte Blonde, it has an incredible floral quality as well as complex notes of classic Côte Rôtie black raspberries, violets, flowers, new leather, and spice. The tannin quality is off the charts and this already offers pleasure today, yet it won’t hit prime time for another 7-8 years and will keep for 25-30 years. This was another power-packed lineup from the Rostaing Family, and you can’t go wrong with any of these new releases. The 2017s show the sunny yet also elegant style of the vintage and have beautifully polished, ripe tannins. These wines offer pleasure even today but do your best to give bottles 4-5 years of bottle age, especially the single vineyard releases. Looking at the 2018s, these are largely in the same style yet have slightly more concentrated, structured profiles. My money is on the 2018s requiring slightly more bottle age, but I’ll report on those from bottle this time next year. In addition to the Côte Rôties, don’t miss a chance to try the Languedoc and Collines Rhodaniennes releases. Both represent terrific wines as well as value.

Have I shortchanged Rostaing's incredible 2017 Cote Rotie Cote Brune? Swirling notes of roses, herbal tea and lavender potpourri impart kaleidoscopic complexity on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is creamy-ripe in texture yet silky, lithe and downright sexy. Firm tannins on the lengthy finish leave a lasting impression of longevity, of restrained intensity that should carry this wine at least two decades into the future.

Extrovert aromatic nose: violet, black cherry, piquant spice, loads of floral complexity on the length. Broad, balanced, satisfying, fresh and relatively light, which makes this dangerously drinkable. (RH)