2018 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Alte Reben

Gentian, orange blossom and black tea mingle with high-toned evocations of white peach and purple plum in a profusely aromatic display. The feel is satiny, but with underlying firmness and a sense of stone suffusion. Hints of citrus peel, along with pit piquancy, serve for counterpoint that cuts the wine’s density and richness of fruit. Myriad floral, fruity and smoky mineral notes well up on a finish that grips and resonates in a manner to which one has become accustomed (indeed, spoiled by) from these 120-year-old vines, delivering cheek-tugging piquancy as well as invigorating prickle and bright refreshment that can by no means be taken for granted from vintage 2018.