2010 Bernkasteler Doctor Spatlese

Slated for auction, the Thanisch 2009 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlese A.P. #6 displays greater levity than its non-auction counterpart as well as a more refined and diverse sense of mineral nuance – stony, saline, crystalline – to play against its refreshing lime juiciness and its preserves of quince and white peach. Subtly creamy and garlanded with musky floral perfume, this finishes with an impeccable stand-off of acidity and residual sugar; fascinating length; and the promise of 15-20 years intriguing evolution. Sofia Thanisch bottled only what she considered the commercially-dictated minimum of trocken and halbtrocken wine (which she did not offer me to taste) from 2010, and tended toward leaving behind higher than usual levels of residual sugar in the vintage’s other bottlings. De-acidification was via calcium carbonate (sometimes as must; sometimes as wine) and quite restrained, finished levels often remaining fearlessly, indeed almost freakishly high. Overall level of production was down 40% form long-term norms. Various importers, including P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424