2018 Grands Echezeaux

The 2018 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is consistent with my notes from barrel. On the nose, it offers dark berry fruit, a little earthiness at first giving way to black truffle and sous-bois . The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins on the entry, good grip and a sturdy finish that will require bottle age. [Postscript: returning to the bottle the following evening, it has blossomed into a sublime Grands Echézeaux, the sturdiness disappearing and the wine attaining a sumptuous texture.]

Once again the nose is basically mute and about all that emerges, even with aggressive agitation, are pretty spice wisps. There is excellent mid-palate concentration to the broad-shouldered and powerful flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the focused, balanced and gorgeously complex finale. While presently quite compact, this is extremely promising.

The 2018 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is matured entirely in new oak and is completely de-stemmed. This is one cru that shows a little sur-maturité on the nose, perhaps some VA that nags away. The palate is sweet and candied on the entry. A sucrous Grands Echézeaux with a sweet, almost confit-like finish. I can’t help thinking that some stems would have reined in this over-exuberant grand vin.