2009 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
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Tasting notes
An attractive, mid-weight wine, the 2009 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia is all about grace. The style is quite weightless and perfumed, with lovely overall balance and silky tannins that make the wine approachable, even in its youth. Small red berries, mint and spices are woven into the subtle, understated finish. Overall the 2009 comes across as a wine to drink over the near and medium-term given its decidedly mid-weight structure.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(bottled in August of 2012): Bright medium red. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, rose petal and mint. Juicy, youthfully tight and intense; not a rich style but elegant and perfumed, with good supporting minerality. No sign of overripeness here, unlike with many other 2009 Barolos from sandy soil. Finishes with building but ripe tannins and enticing lingering aromatic character. Very refined.
Commune of Castiglione Falletto. Just mid ruby. Subdued iron, marzipan and marasca cherry and a little medicinal. Quite tannic but with a sweet concentrated fruit core to match. Impressive, powerful, long finish. (WS)
The 2009 Barolo Rocche takes us in a new direction thanks to its seductive bouquet that is woven tight with menthol tones and dried ginger backed by savory scents of leather, tobacco, sweet spice and licorice. The wine shows added complexity and nuance. I’m sure these tones will shape up nicely in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Spaniard Alex Sanchez is Piedmont’s favorite expat winemaker. His entree into the world of Barolo is by marriage, but his story fits seamlessly into the tale of father-and-son succession that drives this storied wine region. Brovia was founded in 1863 by grandfather Giacinto Brovia who left the property to his son Antonio. The heir died prematurely and the winery ceased to function for 20 years until Antonio’s son (named Giacinto after his grandfather) was able to restart the legacy. One of Giacinto’s two daughters, Elena, was next to take the baton. Her husband, MBA graduate Alex Sanchez, was quickly folded into the fray and has since become the soul (and smile) of the estate. The current lineup shows some exciting highlights (notably the Barolo Ca’ Mia with its exceptional beauty) but, all in all, the wines were not at the levels I had anticipated. The traditional style of the wine, normally so fine, silky and elegant, tasted thin and lean instead – possibly the result of those firm, slightly unhinged, 2009 tannins. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100