2019 Barolo Parafada

With fruit from 60- to 65-year-old vines in Serralunga d'Alba, the Massolino 2019 Barolo Parafada is vibrant and bright with very pretty aromas of wild cherry, blue flower, iron ore and rusty nail. The wine displays very pretty intensity but remains balanced all the while. There is a lot of precision and definition in this well-structured Nebbiolo. Be patient with this wine. Some 6,000 bottles will be released this fall.

The 2019 Barolo Parafada is a wine of tremendous inner strength, as if all of its energy is focused inwards. Dark cherry, smoke, leather, gravel, scorched earth and licorice slowly come alive in the glass. Dense, potent and muscular, the 2019 offers tons of textural intensity and brooding, virile power. It is fascinating to taste next to the Margheria, which is a bit more aromatic and nuanced, while the Parafada is all muscle. This is one of the best editions I can remember tasting.

Just mid ruby. At first there is a clear impact of the posh oak on the nose, but with aeration it lifts off and becomes just a pinch. Meaty raspberry nose that is still compact and youthful but with plenty of depth. Bags of fine, coating tannins rolling over the fresh, deep red fruit. Sensational balance between fruit and tannins. (WS)