2019 Barolo Cannubi

A more classically styled wine (though with Fabio's touch), the 2019 Barolo Cannubi reveals ripe wild raspberry, sweet herbs, and licorice candy. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with more concentration and sweet tannins as well as notes of ripe red cherry and incense. A gripping wine, it is deserving of several more years in the cellar before more introspective drinking over the following 2 to 3 decades. Based in Verduno, Fabio Burlotto leads the estate named after his great-great-grandfather. The holdings currently consist of 17 hectares in total, predominantly in Verduno, and a small portion outside of the commune with parcels in Cannubi (Valletta) in Barolo and most recently in Castelletto in Monforte d’Alba. In 2018, he produced his first vintage from 50-year-old vines at the higher part of their parcel in Castelletto, while the lower section was replanted and will see its first harvest this year. Although anything is possible, the vision at the moment is that this fruit will become a part of their Classic Barolo. Aclivi is a selection of the best part of each vineyard site, with the traditional blended style of Barolo in mind, and stands in as a substitute for a Riserva bottling. Usually, the grapes are destemmed for the Aclivi, while the Monvigliero is fermented with whole clusters. Historically, Fabio’s grandfather was fermenting all of his Barolo with whole clusters before 1967. When his father took over after he died in 1968, he began destemming the grapes until the 1982 vintage, when they moved back to utilizing whole clusters for the Monvigliero, which Fabio continues to this day. There is a great commitment and dedication to the other varietals of the region, with only half of the total production being Nebbiolo and the remaining half Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa, Pelaverga, and Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation for the Barolo occurs in 20-year-old open-top French oak containers, with some punching down, but generally a gentle approach. In the cellar, they utilize 30-year-old large French oak casks, and when barrels need to be replaced, only Barbera or Langhe Nebbiolo will go into the new barrels on occasion. The majority of the wines in this report were tasted at the winery with Fabio in March of 2023. The style is marked by lift and energy, with the majority offering an outstanding bouquet of aromatics. They tend to lean toward a Burgundian aesthetic in that they are highly expressive and offer fantastic mineral texture in a medium frame. The indigenous grapes are not to be missed and offer some of the best-hidden gems at an insane value when and if you can find them. Though the US is certainly a major market for wines, Fabio is uniquely committed to having a substantial proportion of his wines distributed in Italy, and I personally intend to have the great fortune to enjoy them while abroad.

The 2019 Barolo Cannubi is a powerhouse. A Barolo of real substance and depth, the 2019 packs a huge punch. It offers a great foil to the finesse of Monvigliero. Black cherry, lavender, spice, menthol and leather infuse the 2019 with tons of complexity. Here, too, the tannins are wonderfully integrated into the wine's fabric, but make no mistake about it, the 2019 has a ton of tannin!

Just mid ruby. Raspberry interspersed with complex earthy notes and hints of rhubarb. Cool and fresh yet concentrated. Succulent fruit with firm yet finely chiselled tannins. The acidity gives the whole a lightness and energy, while the deep tannins add tactile fireworks. (WS)