2021 Brunnenhauschen Abtserde GG

Bittersweet floral and herbal elements, typical for this bottling, surge from the glass. Lavender, thyme, wormwood, licorice, iris and gentian are expressed as if from a distillate. Along with these come intimations of the white peach and grapefruit – strongly marked by their pits and pips – that then explode in the mouth. As with the other Keller Grosse Gewächse of this vintage, the sense of sheer density conveyed is formidable, but the mid-palate impression is more expansive, and the overall effect is more expressive at this youthful stage than in the Hubacker or Morstein. Textural richness counteracts what might otherwise have been the austere and severe effects of strongly, near-bitter piquancy and underlying chalkiness. Freshly ground coriander seed and black pepper add further stimulation, and chalky impressions ground a penetrating and vibrantly bright finish entirely reflective of this wine’s intense aromas, and one that leaves gums, cheeks and tongue tingling.