1990 Barolo Vigna del Gris

The 1990 Barolo Vigna del Gris offers a dense, saturated, dark ruby color, a reticent but promising nose of black-cherry fruit, damp earth, and minerals, and a spicy, meaty, full-bodied flavor that exhibits considerable tannin, glycerin, and alcohol. Although it is a candidate for two decades worth of aging, I would not touch a bottle for 3-4 years. As my notes so admirably attest, Conterno Frantino is an up and coming Piedmontese star. Both 1989s are terrific wines. Both the 1990 cuvees were closed and more difficult to assess, hence the more conservative scores. With more time in the bottle, these wines will prove to be as persuasive as the 1989s. Importer: a Neil Empson Selection, Empson, USA, Inc., Alexandria, VA.