2017 Brunello di Montalcino

Just mid ruby. Lifted nose that is a little ethereal and hinting at concentrated cherry fruit. Super-elegant palate and yet lots of concentration and fine, long tannins. Poised. (WS)

An alluring, spicy and dusty mix of cherry and raspberry preserves, crushed stone and dusty flowers is lifted by cedar shavings and dried citrus peels as the majestic 2017 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is fleshy yet delicate in feel, displaying pure ripe red berry fruit, nicely contrasted by salty mineral tones, and lacking only a bit of midpalate depth that might take it to the next level. It tapers off long while leaving the mouth watering for more, as a gentle tug of tannin slowly fades under rosy inner florals. Andrea Costanti didn’t produce a Riserva in 2017, and so all of that juice was used to try to bolster the Brunello. From what I’ve tasted, I’d say he succeeded.

Aromatically, the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino has found a lovely balance, dark and balsamic, with dried cherries, cloves, spiced citrus and lifting hints of cedar and pine. This is seductively soft-textured and round. A zesty, acidic, spicy core offsets a silken wave of ripe red berry fruits. Its minerality shines through in the finish as edgy tannins resonate and a pleasantly bitter sensation settles in. The 2017 tapers off long and structured, yet not as severe as many of its vintage counterparts. The balance within is lovely. Andrea Costanti decided not to bottle a Riserva in 2017, instead adding that juice to this Annata. Beautifully done.