2022 Puligny Montrachet Clos des Folatieres
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Tasting notes
The fruit for this wine comes from the lowest part of Folatières, separated from Ez Folatières by a line of trees that provides welcome shade during the hottest part of the day, and just above Clavoillon. At this youthful stage, the wine is displaying some reduction – but beneath this, the palate is beautiful, packed full of fruit, vibrant and with a silken mouth-feel. This is our favourite expression of three Folatières bottlings – consistently impressive and setting the benchmark for the line-up. The finish is long and pleasing. Drink this before Ez Folatières, but will need more time than its more straightforward sibling Peux Bois. Thirteen barrels were made in 2022, aged in 23% new oak. The 2022 labels are one-offs, including a dedication to their son Pâris, who was born on 1st January 2022.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin, Vinous
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
More reviews and scores
Very firm reduction masks everything but a curious lactic character. While the medium weight flavors possess both a gorgeous mouthfeel and ample minerality, the lactic character reappears on the compact, serious and built-to-age finale. As the description makes clear, this is awkward. Normally, the presence of secondary fermentation nuances is no particular cause for concern but given that this is already in bottle, it's impossible to know how it's going to sort itself out with age. My rating accords the benefit of the doubt but with the caveat of a question mark. Drink 2032+
The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos des Folatières 1er Cru, which comes from Alvina's family, possesses one of the most satisfying and complex bouquets amongst their six Puligny wines: green apple, Golden Delicious, Mirabelle, crushed stone, and just a touch of persimmon. The palate is very well-balanced with beautifully integrated oak. Vibrant and slightly flinty on the finish, this feels long in the mouth. Classy.
There are 11 barrels of the Clos des Folatieres, which happily proves to be the finest of the three. Pale lemon and lime. The notable reduction on the nose slightly hides the fruit, but the palate shows its class. There is a biscuity note, part barrel, part reduction, but much the longest finish. This is going to be a really fine wine and I suspect would have earned a fifth star without the reduction.
About the producer
Alvina Pernot is one of the most exciting producers of white Burgundy today. Based in Puligny-Montrachet with some incredible vineyards, this is a name to watch – creating taut and mineral styles of white Burgundy.