2022 Corton Charlemagne

Once again a reticent nose is cool, airy and restrained while timidly displaying its combination of just sliced citrus, green apple, quinine, iodine and wet stone wisps. There is almost painful intensity to the sleeky muscular and quite powerful large-bodied flavors that display an borderline palpable minerality on the markedly austere, tightly wound and citrus-tinged finale that also offers outstanding length. There is already solid depth and if more develops with age, my rating might be a bit too conservative. Drink 2034+

This charming, fresh Corton Charlemagne boasts apricot and quince aromas with notes of cream and beeswax. The texture is lively and fresh, with a balance and elegance that are very engaging. The wine is produced by an exchange of must with friends who farm in Pernand-Vergelesses; this year, there are five casks, all used, which have given us a lovely wine, more focused on elegance than power. It is not typical Corton Charlemagne because of this, perhaps, but it is a lovely example of the house style.

The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from the Pernand side. It has a welldefined nose with more concentration than the previous vintage: lemon curd, broom, touches of lime and candied orange peel. The palate is taut and fresh on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, but it doesn't quite possess the complexity of the Puligny Premier Crus on the cereal-tinged finish.