2016 Volnay Vieilles Vignes

(racked into cuve in October; from a protected, sun-drenched spot on red soil just below the premier crus, according to Bouley; 75% of the fruit was lost to the frost): Bright red-ruby. Wild aromas of currant and silex minerality. Dense and fully ripe, with its suave black cherry, dark chocolate and licorice flavors showing good medicinal reserve. This very ripe village wine featured a lot of tiny grapes in 2016, according to Bouley. Has the concentration of material to support its firm tannins, which reach the incisors. Finishes with very good energy and a positive note of leather. This wine was aged in just 10% new oak.

The 2016 Volnay Vieilles Vignes spent 12 months in oak before transferring into vat. It has a tightly controlled, slightly introspective bouquet at first, gradually opening to reveal blackberry, raspberry and light oyster shell aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, full of energy and tension with real precision toward the vivid and quite compelling finish. There is real terroir expression here, and it should age well over the next 10 to 16 years.