2008 Barolo Vigna del Gris

The 2008 Barolo Vigna del Gris is gorgeous. Layers of dark red fruit, flowers, spices and minerals emerge as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2008 possesses lovely mid-palate pliancy and juiciness, along with beautifully integrated tannins and exceptional polish. Floral notes add lift and brightness. I particularly like its energy. This is an especially open vintage for the Vigna del Gris. I don't see the 2008 making old bones, but it will be delicious over the next 10-12 years, give or take. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Conterno-Fantino is one of a handful of properties that deliver outstanding quality throughout their entire range. The 2008 Nebbioli were picked very late. The last of the Ginestra fruit did not come in until October 26. Fabio Conterno describes 2008 as a vintage marked with huge diurnal shifts towards the end of a very long growing season. Conterno-Fantino remains a leading exponent of the modern school of Barolo, but today macerations are longer than normal, casks have been added to the French oak barriques and the wines are more polished than they have ever been. The Conterno-Fantino Baroli used to be tannic beasts when young, but the 2008 Baroli are surprisingly accessible at this stage. I imagine the wines will close down at least somewhat over the coming months, but even if they do, these Baroli stand out for their finesse. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Good full red. High-pitched perfume of blackcurrant and rose petal. Then wonderfully sweet and deep, with superb inner-mouth energy and lift to its dark berry and floral flavors. Wonderfully elegant and suave Barolo with a light touch. Finishes with very firm but high-quality tannins and outstanding length and lift. The wine's acidity of around 6 grams hides its 14.5% alcohol.