2018 Toscana Sangiovese

The 2018 Sangiovese dazzles the senses with an exotic bouquet that keeps the glass in constant motion as sandalwood and crushed stones complicate rhubarb and violet floral aromas, all engulfing a core of brilliant strawberry fruit. This is a racy and sleek effort, with silky yet lifted textures and vibrant acidity that embellishes its ripe wild berry fruits. The 2018 finishes with dramatic length and is full of energy. An orange tinge offsets edgy tannins, and purple inner florals slowly fade over a lingering note of hard red candies. I have never experienced such a racy rendition of Saldera, yet this remains loaded with character and expertly balanced. Production was down due to the vintage conditions, resulting in just 11,547 bottles and 416 magnums. Don't miss it.

The elusive and highly collectible Soldera Case Basse 2018 100% Sangiovese is already available in certain markets yet ultimately proves very hard to buy. I suspect it is easier to locate in the United States than in Italy. No matter, Soldera advocates will be very pleased with this latest release that maintains enormous Sangiovese character and brightness despite the uneven growing season (that saw a wet and cool spring and a hot summer). The legendary Gianfranco Soldera died the morning of February 16, 2019, from a heart attack while driving along the bucolic, vineyard-lined road near his winery. That means this is the last vintage manned directly by Soldera, a man who remained extremely active in the vineyards and the winery until the very end. His send-off to us is a delicately nuanced wine with cassis, wild berry, rosemary, pencil shaving and blood orange. This is a beautiful wine that pays tribute not only to Gianfranco Soldera but to his non-interventionist vision of Italian wine that has influenced so many younger vintners in his wake.