2017 Corton Bressandes
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
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Rich and exotic with smoked meat, dark berries and flowers. Black tea, too. Full body, a soft and round texture, yet a fresh finish. Hints of minerals and so compact and long. Drink after 2022, but really approachable even now.
Barrel sample. Vines aged 70–80 years. One hectare. First vintage 2016. 15,000 vines per ha. Owner wants to retire but retain the fiscal status of 'paysan' to avoid paying tax on the sale. Pacalet buys the fruit and is paid for his work in the vineyard. Common today. If the owner wants to sell, Pacalet finds someone else who will buy it. He can’t and doesn’t want to buy land. He is a producer not a landowner. Complex nose that is both red-fruited and a touch smoky/meaty (not bretty). Rich and generous upfront and so full of fruit on the palate and all tightened up on the tension of the finish. Intense and concentrated but with the lightness that comes from freshness. Smooth and long, Fine, rounded texture. (JH)