2021 Coleraine

The 2021 Coleraine is the third in a trio of great vintages and comprises a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. The bouquet is all bramble and spice, with fresh grated nutmeg, a hint of star anise, raw cocoa, raspberry seed, cassis, new leather and iodine. There is also a crushed oyster shell aspect here that I find most appealing. On the palate, the tannins make their presence felt in a register of tactile chewiness and encourage movement and thought. Ultimately, while I find this vintage to be stylistically aligned with 2020, it is very different in its final impact. It feels to me as if 2021 harnesses the structure and intrigue of 2019 with the creamy lushness of 2020 and puts them together in a burst of balance. This wine is like a star coming into existence—there's a bang, a burst of light and a settling period—and it's astoundingly good. 14% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

The 2021 Coleraine is refined and understated, maintaining this Kiwi thoroughbred's royal reputation. The blend brings together 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, although the lifted violets and pencil lead perfume would leave you thinking there was more Franc here. It is a fragrant expression that brings sweetness of ripe, silky fruit without opulence or heaviness. Layers of complex flavor are infused through its concentrated yet satiny core, combining cassis, raspberry, violets, pencil lead, cedar and tea leaf. While plentiful, the tannins are already fine and for those who like to drink prematurely, you could reasonably enjoy this without needing a slab of protein to cope with its structure. The finish is long, smoky and scented.