2019 Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu
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Tasting notes
Certified Ecocert organic, Demeter (1993) and Biodyvin (2002) biodynamic. 25-year-old Chenin vines on clay limestone. Hand-picked. Fermented in demi-muids. Spontaneous fermentation, indigenous yeasts. RS 3 g/l. Muscle and rigidity of spine. Dry and phenolic, intensely pithy, smoke and minerals. Hinting of white flowers and pears behind that smoky veil but still as closed as a tight fist. Give this plenty of time. (TC)
Critic scores
Average Score
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2019 Sec Le Haut-Lieu is classy, polished and simply impeccable. Soft, silky contours wrap around a core of peach and lemon confit fruit. The first impression is all about texture. White flowers, pear and white pepper are some of the nuances that emerge over time, adding complexity, while clean, minerally notes grace the exquisite finish.
The deep brown clay soils of the Haut-Lieu plateau provide the typical fruitiness and freshness wonderfully in Huet's 2019 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec. Ripe pear, tangerine and orange fruits with notes of lemon grass and green pimientos intertwined with very fine chalky and later tobacco notes give a remarkably fine, elegant and harmonious, subtly complex and simply gorgeous bouquet with floral (lime blossom!) and yeasty aromas that are immediately attractive. Delicate and linear on the palate, this is a pure, fresh, bone-dry, lean and textured, highly refined and perfectly interwoven Chenin with persistent purity, finesse, salty-mineral tension and very fine tannins. Highly finessed and so pure and vivacious! This is a chalky picture-book Haut-Lieu that can age for many years, even though it is already dangerously seductive! There was no dry Le Haut-Lieu produced in 2018, but the 2019 is possibly the finest, most delicate and elegant I've had in recent years, at least at this early stage. A terrific and buoyant Vouvray that any Chenin lover should try—or, better yet, cellar! 13% alcohol. 80,000 bottles made. Tasted in July 2020.