2017 Bianco di Trinoro

Here's a surprise from an estate that has made quite a name for itself in the world of full-bodied red wines from Tuscany. Indeed, the 2017 Bianco di Trinoro by Andrea Franchetti comes out of left field. (And with only 1,000 bottles made, only the lucky will catch sight of one.) Fermented in steel and aged on the lees in a series of glass demijohns, this pure expression of Semillon surprises for its lightness, brightness and crispness, and it's ultimately a white wine that represents a direct opposite to the Trinoro staple of reds. However, this is not a simple wine. Indeed, it offers many layers of intensity with stone and tropical fruit followed by creamy pastry. It should be interesting to watch its evolution over the next five years.