2011 Cuvee Keltie Syrah

The 2011 Syrah Cuvée Keltie is a selection of the best barrels in the cellar from Walker Vine Hill, Obsidian, Richards and Steiner. One of the darker 2011s here, the Cuvée Keltie boasts terrific depth, power and raciness. Black fruit, smoke, licorice and incense flow through to the finish. This resonant, expressive Syrah could use another year or two in bottle to fully assimilate the 80% whole clusters. Today the 2011 is deep, dense and a bit compact, yet full of promise.

The 2011 Cuvee Keltie, which came in under 14% alcohol, spent 22 months in neutral wood, and 100% whole stems were used. The wine reveals a chocolaty, smoky, bacon-scented nose that at first suggests a French Cote Rotie, but as it hits the palate with its full-bodied creme de cassis, blackberry, charcoal and graphite personality, it moves more toward a single vineyard Hermitage from the likes of Chapoutier. This supple, rich 2011 can be drunk now or cellared for a decade. This is one of the most impressive Rhone Ranger winemaking estates in California. They have also expanded their portfolio to make small quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. For me, the real glories of Donelan Family Wines are their Syrahs. As the tasting notes suggest, 2011 turned out well here despite the challenges. However, if you can still track down a bottle or two of the 2009s and 2010s, you are in for something very special. Joe Donelan believes their finest wine, representing the best vineyard parcels and top barrel selections is the Cuvee Keltie, which normally comes from specific sub-sections of such vineyard sources as Obsidian, Richard’s Family, Steiner Ranch and Walker Vine Hill. Kudos to Donelan Family Wines! Tel. (707) 591-0782