2014 Chambertin Clos de Beze

(one new barrel out of three and a half; from Pierre Damoy fruit): Healthy medium red. Very late-harvested aromas of ripe black cherry, red licorice and spices, complicated by nuances of honeysuckle, menthol, mint and leather. At once tightly wound and seamless, massive yet light on its feet, conveying terrific energy to its intense flavors of black cherry, raspberry and cinnamon. Finishes with suggestions of medicinal red cherry and licorice and excellent lift.

The 2014 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru needed a few minutes to start its engines, but it eventually does fire up with redcurrant and pomegranate scents, woodland and sea salt lending complexity. It never gets carried away, but there is harmony here and that translates through onto the palate, which is well defined with fine tannin, reserved in style, tightly wound but with a lovely touch of white pepper on the front of the tongue; there is considerable structure and persistence on the finish.