2007 Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo

The 2007 Cerasuolo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is decidedly richer and more opulent than the 2008. Layers of ripe, perfumed fruit flow from this fat, generous Cerasuolo. The 2007 is already rather forward and should be enjoyed sooner rather than later. It would be a shame to miss this wine today, when it is at its most generous. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Valentini is one of Italy’s most iconic producers. Tiny production, fabulous reputation and limited distribution means the wines are very well known and fiercely sought by cognoscenti but otherwise virtually unknown, at least in this country. Fortunately, it looks like that is about to change now that the estate has taken on new US representation. Valentini makes three wines, all along staunchly traditional lines. The Trebbiano is fascinating for its ageability and the way it acquires an oiliness over time that recalls white Burgundy. The Cerasuolo, a rose, needs to be drunk young, but it is one of the finest roses in all of Italy. Valentini’s Montepulciano is another magnificent wine that has a track record of aging beautifully for 25 years or more after the vintage. Production is just 4,000 bottles per year and the wine is expensive, but it is also incredibly unique. Valentini’s wines can sometimes be awkward when they are first released. In many ways these wines remind me of the Barolos of Giuseppe Mascarello in that they can be a touch disjointed, sometimes even rustic, when young, but then mature spectacularly well with many years in bottle. Proprietor Francesco Paolo Valentini releases his wines only when he is happy with the vintage, which explains the lack of 2006 and 2007 Trebbiano. Readers who can find these wines and have the patience to cellar them (except the Cerasuolo) are in for a treat. Importer: Domenico Valentino, New York, NY; tel. ( 212) 679-0822

Valentini's 2007 Cerasuolo is without question one of Italy's most serious rosés. This generous, expansive wine blossoms on the palate with candied cherries, flowers and spices, all of which emerge in stunning style. Generally I recommend drinking rosé while young, but this is a wine that has enough density and complexity to drink well for at least another few years. The 2007 Cerasuolo is a great effort from this iconic producer.

The 2007 Cerasuolo is one of Italy's serious rosés. This generous, expansive wine blossoms on the palate with candied cherries, flowers and spices, all of which emerge in stunning style. Generally I recommend drinking rosés while young, but this is a wine that has enough density and complexity to drink well for at least another few years.