2004 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling

The 2004 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Beerenauslese smells wonderfully of quince, pear nectar, honey, sweet lime and gardenia or lily. The palate remarkably combines sheer viscosity with lightness of touch, featuring quince, caramelized pear, vanilla, and sweet florals. The finish is like a delicate puff pastry filled with vanilla butter cream and quince preserves. This is the sort of pure, refined early-botrytis wine for which the Breuer estate is justly renowned. No need for this relatively sedate wine to shout about its ripeness and noble rot ? or for that matter anything else. Just swallow (I couldn’t spit!), pause for a minute and let its effect sink in. Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 547-0255.