2012 Chambertin

Subtle nose, but there is definite complexity here – it’s just rather suppressed. Likewise on the palate; restrained and understated. Has enough length and core fruit to blossom with age, though, or so it seems. (RH)

A rich, explosive wine, the 2012 Chambertin is endowed with fabulous depth and exceptional overall balance. Dark blue and purplish fruit give way to violets, cinnamon, licorice and lavender. Resonant on the palate yet also quite structured, the 2012 is going to need time to hit the early part of its prime drinking window, but it is striking today just the same. The Chambertin is often terrific here, as it is once again in 2012.

The 2012 Chambertin Grand Cru comes more from the Clos de Beze rather than the Latricieres side. The nose is not as expressive as the Lavaux St. Jacques in barrel, but with a few minutes in the glass it reveals seductive forest floor and briary scents. The palate is silky smooth on the entry thanks to one of the two barrels being new and lending it a polished sheen. As a consequence, it seems incongruous among David Croix’s 2012s because of that pronounced oak, although I suspect, I hope that it will be subsumed in time. This Chambertin shows good potential, but it will need several years in bottle. Maison Camille Giroud is one of Burgundy’s stalwarts that can trace its roots back to 1886. I became acquainted with their wines in the 1990s and to be truthful they languished behind their peers: rather rustic fare that might have been acceptable in the 1970s, but not any longer. When a group of investors, including Ann Colgin and Joe Wender, bought Camille Giroud in 2002, they sought a young, talented winemaker to take the negociant by the scruff of the neck and kick-start a renaissance. That is exactly what happened when David Croix was hired as regisseur in 2005. Most of the fruit is contracted, though like Albert Bichot across the road, David prefers not to distinguish them from the two crus that are owned by the estate. David manages the vineyards and has summarized his policy: one contracted grower per cru in order to articulate a sense of place. “The wines from Camille Giroud tend to be more delicate than Domaine des Croix,” David explained, “and need less barrel aging. They tend to show red fruit, more cherries than my own wines.” In 2012, there are far fewer crus to choose from since yields were down 50% and some significant contracts, the likes of Latricieres-Chambertin and Corton Clos des Roi, were cancelled in their entirety since there was no fruit, which after all is helpful if you want to make wine. Still, what David Croix has managed to eke out from a challenging season is worth seeking out: refined and feminine wines that make up in freshness what might be missing in complexity. Plus they succeed in expressing their terroir as David always intends. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)