2005 Morey St Denis Clos Solon

From 65-year-old vines in a relatively low-lying site along the rue nationale comes a 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Clos Solon displaying low-toned aromas and flavors of black fruits and meat, a substantial but rather grainy palate impression, and a finish of faintly bitter nuttiness, spices, and meat stock. At least for now, this well-concentrated Pinot is a bit undifferentiated in flavors and less polished than its stable mates. The articulate and opinionated Jean-Marie Fourrier staunchly believes in the inclusion of uncrushed fruit (to among other things prolong fermentation and, he claims, diminish the efficiency of alcoholic conversion); leaving the young wines on their lees (with high CO2 retention) eighteen months before bottling; employing a mere 20% of new barrels for all wines; and applying only minimal doses of sulfur. That the property from which he sources is all owned outright, and is largely in vines of over fifty years age planted by his father or grandfather before the days of clones certainly helps explain the consistently excellent quality at this address. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Good bright red. Spicy blackberry, mocha, pungent spices and exotic herbs on the very ripe nose. Sweet, lush and broad, but with a less refined texture than the Gruenchers. Finishes with substantial tannins.