2005 Bourgogne Rouge

In the realm of pure Pinot, the Lafarge 2005 Bourgogne also offers excellent value and unusual quality for its humble class, assisted in this instance, of course, by the character of the vintage. Concentrated, bright, bitter-edged black fruit aromas and flavors are accompanied by grilled meat and chalky minerality. This displays cut and clarity and an undeniable Volnay elegance in its mouth watering finish. The entire Lafarge collection was predictably still in barrel when I visited in February, with even the generic cuvees due for assembly only in March. Speaking of generic bottlings, I don’t know of another domaine that has three of them, and I certainly doubt that there is one with three routinely worthy of attention even by those with the disposable income to afford premier crus. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70