2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos des Papes

Coming from smaller-than-normal yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape is drinking well. According to proprietor Paul-Vincent Avril, it's a "normal blend" for the estate. Scents of leather, pressed flowers and black cherries emerge from the glass, while the in the mouth, the wine is full-bodied and silky, and it adds a complex note of Mourvèdre-derived truffle-mushroom-tree bark on the finish. Drink now and over the next decade.

Higher than usual percentage of Mourvèdre because it was so good in 2011. Bricky ruby. If you had given this to me blind, I might initially have thought it was Pinot Noir – there is a red-fruit succulence and perfume that is really pretty, even if behind it there is greater richness and spice. Not Pinot-like on the palate. Really quite taut on the palate, with both tannins and freshness taking hold. There’s spice, a malty flavour and that fine, fruit-kernel bitterness that give a fresh and lively length. Complex and textured and very long. A wine to spend the evening with. Beautifully balanced. (JH)

Mid ruby with lots of shading. Light and sweet. Without the real anchor and ballast of a great vintage. A rather skinny disappointing bottle. In retreat? (JR)