2022 Les Carmes Haut Brion
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Tasting Notes
Guillaume Pouthier’s 2022 Grand Vin is astounding – a wine that is a triumph in the face of the year’s hot, dry conditions. But it’s no accident – with masterful work in the vineyard and winery leading to the impressive result, including 70% whole-bunch fermentation. The resulting wine is pretty and delicate, with aromatics that shift from creamy, sweet notes to spicy pepper, to peony florals and juicy bright fruit. It dances across the palate, the fine-textured tannin like layers of tulle that coat the crunchy core of concentrated fruit. There’s incredible tension, with a mineral thread holding everything in place. A wine of glorious finesse. Just 13.5% alcohol, aged in 70% new barrique, 20% foudre and 10% amphora. Blend: 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot
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James Suckling
Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate
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I think one of the legendary wines in the vintage will be the 2022 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, which comes from a tiny vineyard not far from Haut-Brion and is based on 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Merlot, vinified with 70% whole clusters, and aged 70% in new barrels, 20% in foudre, and 10% in amphora. Despite mostly being not destemmed, you wouldn't know it by tasting it. It has a classic bouquet of ripe blackberries, cassis, leafy herbs, graphite, and violets, while in contrast, the C Des Carmes Haut-Brion, which is vinified with just 30% stems, is clearly marked more by its stems. Full-bodied, concentrated, beautifully balanced, and with a rare mix of purity, freshness, and power, it's going to rival the 2018 as one of the finest vintages ever produced from this address. It's worth noting this estate has a unique terroir in Pessac that includes some limestone in the soils, and this worked particularly well in 2022. Don't miss this wine.
The first thing you notice is the black, purple hue. Next, it its the perfume with its black, blue and red fruits, incense, curry, flowers, smoke and herbs. Opulent, restrained, elegant and powerful, the wine comes in layers. You can sense the array of exotic spices, mint, blue and black fruits, crushed rocks, black cherries and white pepper on the palate. Full-bodied and dense, the wine somehow remains light on its feet. The end notes, meshing elegance and power bring everything together, as the finish crosses the 60 second mark. This is perhaps even better than the perfect, 2016! The wine was made using 70% whole bunch clusters during fermentation. From a blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, 13.5% ABV, pH 3.6. The wine is aging in a combination of 70% new, French oak, 20% foudres and 10% amphora. Picking took place September 5 - September 22. Yields were 40 hectoliters per hectares.
This is so umami with sea urchin character that gives you sea salt and dried seaweed aromas and flavors. The integrity and richness is so impressive with an exotic character, yet it is so classic and fine in structure. 13.5% alcohol. 70% whole cluster fermentation. 40% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot. A new model for Bordeaux?
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About the producer
Ch. les Carmes Haut-Brion was originally part of the Ch. Haut-Brion property, up until the 16th Century (1584) when the owner donated the property to the Carmes monks who went on to manage the vineyards until the French Revolution.