2022 Doisy Daene Cuvee l'Extravagant

The 2022 Doisy-Daëne L'Extravagant soars out of the glass with pineapple, crème brûlée, coconut, tangerine oil and candied orange peel. This is an especially rich vintage for L'Extravagant, a Barsac that usually shows a bit more Sauvignon Blanc energy and cut. This clearly needs time.

The 2022 L'Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne, pure Sémillon as usual, is deceptively backward on the nose. The action is on the palate: unctuous honeyed fruit counterbalanced by fine acidity, extremely pure with layers of wild peach, apricot, figs and marmalade on the long finish. Despite its power, it comes across with tenderness and grace. Chapeau Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu. It's outrageous in all the best ways.

Green apple, grass, soft floral touches, some orange zest and fresh pineapple. Electric and thrilling, this is sharp, agile, sweet, tangy and salty - a gorgeous combination of fresh citrus fruits and peach flesh with flint and wet stone edges. Lovely direction and focus and still such depth on the mid palate which some are lacking. Has appealing orange, lemon, peach, pear, apple fruit, juicy friendliness and yet this has persistence from start to finish that is so captivating and electric. Round, deep, sensual, rich and opulent but not heavy, retains its firm structure but with a delicious lemony sugary brightness that just lifts the palate and keeps the attention. A brilliant white wine, just so enjoyable from the moment it touches the palate, widening, expanding, deepening and delighting. 4.21 total acidity, 3.21pH.