2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos des Papes

Plenty of oil, medicine and furniture polish on the nose – yet not a hint of faultiness. Instead, the fruit and the complexity blend together, and keep balance with the fiery body too. Spectacular effort! (RH)

Yoghurt and cheese character – dairy, but with yeast. Remarkable freshness on the palate, and ample spice too. Honeyed yet dry, and there’s a touch of saltiness on the finish. I’d be tempted to drink this soon, before the fruit retreats any further. Almond character on the finish. (RH)

One of the great vintages from this estate, surpassing even the 1990, 2000, 2001, 2003, and maybe the 2010 (time will tell with this one), the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape from Vincent Avril delivers everything you could want from a wine. Full-bodied, intense and beautifully concentrated, with plenty of muscle and depth, it shows the hallmark elegance and purity of the estate, with sensational notes of kirsch liqueur, raspberries, incense, smoked meats and Asian spices. The blend is the normal 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and the rest a mix of permitted varieties, brought up all in older foudre, and it's just now entering its prime drink window and has another two decades of longevity.