2017 Condrieu Les Terrasses de l'Empire

Beautifully spicy apricot and orange-blossom aromas lead to a palate that has such composed, fleshy and ripe peach and apricot flavor. Really concentrated. Drink now.

Sweet but not overripe – such clarity of fruit! Rich, succulent and nuanced, with fine acidic weave on the finish. (RH)

Leading off the three Condrieus from this reference point estate, the 2017 Condrieu Les Terrasses de l'Empire is a seamless, brilliant wine that makes the most of what was a more difficult vintage for Condrieu. Stunning notes of white peach, citrus blossom, spice, and subtle minerality all emerge from the glass. With ample richness, terrific purity, and a clean, pure style, drink it over the coming 3-5 years. At the top of the hierarchy of Condrieu, Domaine Vernay has been run by Christine Vernay since 1997, when she took over from her father, George Vernay. These wines go from strength to strength, and today she fashions an IGP Viognier, three Condrieu, an IGP Syrah, a handful Saint Joseph, and two Côte Rôties. The majority of the 2015s were reviewed last year, so this report focuses primarily on her 2016s. Christine commented that the vintage started slowly with a rainy, cold spring, but quickly warmed going into summer and early fall, with beautiful weather at the end of the year. I was able to taste two 2017s, and while a hot, more challenging vintage, she appears to have handled the year with ease, and the wines are upfront, perfumed, and sexy, yet also pure.