2018 Vosne Romanee Clos du Chateau Monopole

As usual, the 2018 Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château is the most perfumed of the communal bottlings chez Liger-Belair, bursting with aromas of peonies, orange rind, wild berries and espresso roast. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, pliant and enveloping, with velvety tannins and an ample core of succulent fruit.

Monopole vineyard of 83 ares behind the château, the walls keeping in the heat. Always a higher pH. Easy to get an oxidative note with this wine, says Liger-Belair, because of the soil, so he often racks and bottles it earlier. Tank sample. Mid cherry red. A touch of smoky reduction. Dark-red fruit. Opens to an inviting floral peony scent. That darker floral character and a freshness that seems to come from the aroma rather than from the acidity. Silky tannins you can barely feel. Evanescent, the wine floating between the palate and roof of the mouth. Gorgeous delicacy and silkiness. Light on the mid palate but so long. You can approach this young, suggests Liger-Belair, because it never seems to be upset by the bottling process. (JH)