2008 Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle

Even more succulently rich yet no less dense or mouthwateringly bright than its “regular reserve” counterpart, the Trimbach 2008 Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle is adds mirabelle and litchi to the peach, blood orange, and grapefruit of its “little” brother and a hint of oiliness of texture accentuates the impression of a Pinot Gris into which a bit of Gewurztraminer has been blended. As this opens to the air, musky and animal fat notes as well as black tea smokiness add intrigue and interest that – like sheer invigoration – never flags on repeated exposure to a veritably explosive finish. Look for this beauty to reward at least 15 years of attention and to perform feats at table that few wines can rival. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.com