2017 Volnay Caillerets

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets was also showing well, offering up pretty aromas of dried flowers, orange rind, red berries and coniferous forest floor. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, tensile and elegant, with a tight-knit core, chalky structuring tannins and a juicy line of acidity. As I noted earlier this year, this parcel was planted in 1962 with the domaine's finest genetic material and always sees the most whole cluster fermentation of any in the range—this year, 50%.

Planted in early 1960s (better than the vines on SO4 rootstocks of the 1980s). 50% whole bunch because Thierry Glantenay thinks it goes especially well with this vineyard. Has to have all the grapes in front of him to make the selection for whole bunch so harder for the bigger cuvées. No new oak because it is a small parcel (two barrels only) – doesn’t want 50% new. Lovely scented nose, with the fresh aromas of stems but no greenness. A little smoky alongside the limpid, dark, lightly peppery fruit. Super-fine texture and really mouth-watering and precise in the mouth. Beautifully proportioned. Elegant, not muscular, long. (JH)