2019 Arbois Chardonnay

This cuvée has existed since the beginning of Domaine du Pélican, in 2012. The Chardonnay cuvée is made from several different parcels of vineyards located in Arbois and Montigny-lès-Arsures. In addition, they produce two single-vineyard Chardonnays (En Barbi and Grand Curoulet). The vineyards sit mostly on hilltops, over marly soils. Their elevation is the highest of the estate (close to 400 m). One vineyard is on the west-facing slope of the Revermont and is covered with fallen rocks ( éboulis calcaires ) of Bajocian limestone. Age of the vines is between 10 and 45 years. The grapes are lightly crushed and then immediately pressed. Fermentation takes place in barrels and foudres. Élevage is in 350- and 500-litre barrels (of which 10% are new oak) for about 50% of the crop. The balance is in foudres. Full bottle 1,290 g. Very pale gold. A light leesy note, with a sour citrus freshness, spice in extreme moderation, and a whiff of fresh pears. Super-crisp acidity, intense lemon and grapefruit and powerful salty-sour freshness. On the long finish, there's a surprising depth and richness and a tiny hint of struck match suggesting reduction, but it is very slight. Wonderfully pure, direct and mouth-watering. So much more than Chardonnay.  (JH)