2011 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Beerenauslese

Crystallized ginger- and cinnamon-spiced mirabelle preserves and quince jelly are mingled with banana, mango and caramelized parsnip in a Kesseler 2011 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Beerenauslese gold capsule as complex as it is strikingly gaudy. Richly textured, viscous, and palpably high-extract, this almost syrup-like B.A. harbors a bit of botrytis prickle and bitterness that I hope and suspect are capable of becoming better integrated with time. Certainly the wine exhibits impressive – if not entirely harmonious – length. Don’t look, though, for any significant diminution in the impression of sheer sweetness conveyed here before 2030 or later; and whether or not the wine will in every respect reward such long cellaring only time can tell. Setting himself in opposition to current German fashion, August Kesseler proposes to place enhanced emphasis on dry or off-dry wines of alcoholic levity including ones labeled “Kabinett.” After commencing picking on September 18, 2011, the Kesseler team soon paused to let cooler, drier weather take effect, meanwhile working to remove acetic fruit. Once proper harvesting recommenced, it continued until almost the end of October. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802