2016 Corton Bressandes

(aging in one-third new oak, like the Corton; the yield here was about 40 hectoliters per hectare): Bright, dark red. Restrained nose suggests dark fruits, licorice pastille, spices, bitter chocolate and cedar, with a pungent mineral quality emerging with aeration. A sophisticated Corton grand cru with subtle intensity and complex accents of crushed stone, salty minerals and flowers. Penetrating but not hard. Finishes with subtle rising length, the firm tannins tightening up with air without going dry. Nathalie Tollot noted that this wine went through a very oaky phase but today the wood is playing a supporting role.

Matured in one-third new oak, the 2016 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru was unaffected by frost this vintage. There was some reduction on the nose when I tasted this from barrel. Bypassing the aromatics, the palate has good density and body, the new oak a little elevated as the fruit was closing down, but there is a fine line of acidity and a lovely, spicy finish that feels long and persistent. Maybe the Le Corton has a little more precision? Still, this is very fine, if just a little “bigger boned” than its sibling.