1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

As I have noted in the past, Togni holds back 100 cases of each vintage to be released at age ten. Although 1998 was a challenging vintage in California, this 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate has evolved into a beautiful wine. If you want to throw a California Cabernet into a blind tasting of first and second-growth Bordeaux, this is the wine to choose. A dead-ringer for a top-class Pauillac, it offers leafy, cedary, licorice, red and black currant, and roasted herb aromas. In the mouth, the Bordeaux-like austerity continues with noticeable tannin as well as a slightly dry finish. Nevertheless, this wine is showing well, although I would not hold it longer than 5-6 years, atypical for a Togni. This is an irrefutable source of remarkable Cabernet Sauvignons that last 20-30+ years! Philip Togni is a no-nonsense, tough-minded guy who is working alongside his daughter, so the succession at this winery is guaranteed should he ever decide to retire. Tel. (707) 963-3731; Fax (707) 963-9186

(about 120 cases will be re-released in the fall of 2008, ten years after the harvest) Good dark red. Wild aromas of currant, leather, and smoky bacon fat; reminded me of a Cote-Rotie. Lively, leanish and penetrating, with firm flavors of dark fruits, salami skin, pepper and herbs. A rather elegantly styled wine with surprising persistence, albeit a tad dry and herbal on the back. Light for a Togni wine (Togni himself referred to the wine as "thin") but with no shortage of complexity-and very easy to pair with food.

Medium ruby. Expressive, slightly herbaceous aromas of cassis, tobacco leaf, licorice and pepper. Supple in texture but much smaller-scaled than the '99. Fairly intense flavors of espresso, pepper, maple syrup and roasted tomato. Togni declassified nearly 20% of his barrels in '98.