1998 Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres
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Tasting notes
The first wine for a blind Cheval-Blanc-themed dinner at Hinds Head in Bray-on-Thames. So apparently concentrated and glamorous on the nose that we blind tasters thought it was a grand Cru white burgundy but then on the palate there was a quite disjunctive level of acidity and chewiness. I’d tend to wait awhile before tackling any more bottles in the hope that it will round out on the palate too. (JR)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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Coche's 1998 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres were not stricken by frost, and produced what he referred to as "a great harvest of yellow grapes." Picked at 13% natural potential alcohol, it displays buttered toast and spicy oak aromas. This plump, medium-bodied, pear, ripe apple, and creme brulee-flavored wine is a delight to drink right out of the barrel. Opulent, focused, and well-balanced, it is undoubtedly one of the stars in Coche-Dury's cellar in the 1998 vintage. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.
About the producer
Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury is one of the most sought-after names in Burgundy, famed for producing some of the most expensive white wines in the world. The demand for these fiercely collected wines far outstrips supply.