2020 Ornellaia Bianco
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Tasting notes
A similar bright yellow/silver, the 2020 Ornellaia Bianco is entirely Sauvignon Blanc raised in barrels and offers a sunny and delicately rounded bouquet, with polished notes of candied grapefruit, salted pineapple, peach rings, and custard. Medium to full-bodied, it has a silky sheen to its texture and harmonious balance, with its delicate perfume lasting long on the finish. This is another exceptional white that I hope is not ignored by lovers of this estate. Truly one of the great Tuscan whites, this luxurious and detailed wine has a lot of elegance and serious aging potential. Drink 2025-2035. 2023 saw the departure of longtime winemaker and estate director Axel Heinz, as well as winemaker Olga Fusari. Ms. Fusari has moved on to lead the team as winemaker over at Ruffino, while Axel has returned to his home of Bordeaux, where he is now the CEO of Château Lascombes. Marco Balsimelli has officially taken over the reins for Axel as of this month (January 2024). Founded in 1981 by Marchesi Lodovico Antinori, since 2005 the ownership of Ornellaia has been entirely with the Frescobaldi family of wine estates. Famed oenologist Michel Rolland has been an instrumental consultant since 1991 and remains so to this day. In the winery, they work entirely with medium toast French oak, hoping not to impact the aromatic profile of the wines too much. The Serre Nuove delle Ornellaia, which was established in 1997, originally served as an outlet for the younger vines of the estate, but today it has evolved, with its own full expression and style, as a wine to drink more immediately than the flagship label. At this year's tasting, I was especially impressed with the 2021 release of this cuvée, and I’m hoping it’s an indication of great things to come from the 2021 flagship label next year.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
Creamy nose with quince, stones, sour cream and golden berries on the nose. Quite tangy, bone-dry and saline on the palate with impressive concentration and tension. Fresh, sleek and full-bodied with a long, zingy finish that lasts almost a minute. Saline and lightly creamy at the end. Drink or hold.
The 2020 Ornellaia Bianco is bright, finely cut, dry white. Lime, white flowers, mint and white pepper are all beautifully delineated in this crisp white. I would give this at least a year or two in bottle, as the acids are pretty aggressive today, or several hours in a decanter, which will help soften the youthful edges.
An expert rendition of soft power, this has depths to the expression of Sauvignon Blanc that you find in very few versions of this grape variety. Rippling with lemongrass, tomato leaf, sage, citrus, some riper fleshy fruits of apricot, nectarine and pineapple than in the 2019 vintage, clearly an impressive glass that has tension and grip. Winemaker Olga Fusari, director Axel Heinz.
About the producer
Based in the foothills of Bolgheri, Ornellaia is one of the original Super Tuscans, making some of Italy’s finest Cabernet blends. Created by Lodovico Antinori, today the estate is owned by the Frescobaldi family, which also owns sibling property Masseto.