2019 Barolo Castellero
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Tasting notes
With fruit from the village of Barolo, the Giacomo Fenocchio 2019 Barolo Castellero is a bit closed on first nose with a metallic note of tin or latex that takes away from the freshness of the fruit. I have noticed this reduction across many of the wines from 2019. There is dried flower and crushed stone mixed in with fine-grained tannins. Production is 5,000 bottles.
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Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The second of the Cru wines, the 2019 Barolo Castellero is supple and seductive, with a seamless floral perfume of violets, crushed stones, black cherry, and truffle. Medium-bodied and generous through the mid-palate, it remains elegant and savory, with good length. Lingering notes of apricot and flowers exude after the wine is gone. Drink 2024-2034. Claudio Fenocchio is the fifth-generation winemaker for this estate based in Monforte d’Alba. They practice long fermentations and maceration and utilize large Slavonian oak. In the vineyard, they practice organic viticulture.
The 2019 Barolo Castellero is redolent of pine, menthol, licorice, spice, lavender and cedar. Medium in body, the 2019 offers terrific freshness and energy throughout. Bright acids and focused tannins give the wine its shape and overall persistence. This should be approachable with minimal cellaring.
Cask sample. Spontaneous fermentation. Aged in 4,000-litre Klaus Pauscha Slavonian oak. Mid to deep ruby with orange tinges. Brooding and a little exotic on the nose with hints of dark spice. Not entirely open yet. Concentrated but stubborn palate with lifted acidity that is a little marked, but this is still embryonic. Fine, grainy tannins on the finish. Far from ready and with lots of powdery tannins on a complex, layered finish. (WS)