2008 Chablis

Vincent Dauvissat’s 2008 Chablis evinces that illusive and seductive saline, sweet savor of scallops I associate at this address especially with Sechet and Preuses. A wealth of marine elements is in fact present already in the nose, together with grapefruit and tangerine that deliver luscious juiciness on the palate. The generous fruit perfectly complements the wine’s mineral dimensions, which combines levity and almost vibratory energy with density. This remarkable example of its modest appellation may well grow in the bottle and certainly should perform well for 4-5 years. Vincent Dauvissat points out that at least at his estate, 1996 was at once more severe yet more alcoholic and more exotic in aroma than what he terms the “more classic” vintage of 2008. Both years featured long cool growing seasons and wind-driven concentration in the late innings, but the fruit in 2008 was cleaner, and entirely botrytis-free, Dauvissat maintains. He says his 2008s come closer in character to 2002. (Incidentally, at age six months, Dauvissat’s 2009s showed promising vivacity and mineral inflection for their vintage.) Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 (Under the “Dauvissat-Camus” label, certain of these wines are also imported by Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (781) 352 1100.)