2017 Brunello di Montalcino

The Salicutti 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione (closed with a black wax capsule) is pure and genuine in character, but it also shows simple lines and not as much depth as we saw in the previous vintage. However, if the goal in 2017 was to avoid overt ripeness or heaviness, those two objectives have been accomplished quite successfully in this wine. Aromas of wild cherry, rose and grilled herb are lifted and pretty, and the wine shows varietal character that is especially pure. Fruit comes from the tiny Piaggione vineyard, which measures just over a hectare and is farmed meticulously by hand. Production is 5,692 bottles.

Just mid ruby. Stalky and savoury rather than fruity on the nose, but becoming sweeter with aeration. Ripe, round fruit with a layer of ripe, chewy tannins. Long and accessible, but could perhaps be a little more complex. (WS)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione is a beautiful beast, bursting from the glass with a smoky mix of sage, cinnamon, black cherries and dusty rose. Its textures are silky and polished, ushering in a potent blend of raspberry and exotic spice, yet with a core of zesty acidity that maintains fantastic balance. Grippy tannins clamp down through the finale, yet fail to slow the momentum within, as the 2017 Piaggione maintains an almost-juicy character. This may not be a classic expression of Salicutti Brunello, taking vintage into consideration, but it is packed full of balanced pleasures. Well done.