2018 Brunello di Montalcino

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino opens nicely in the glass, drawing upon more intensity and depth as it does. It shows firm lines and a fleshed-out mouthfeel that encourages plenty of layering and textural richness. That velvety quality is the enduring signature of this estate, one that has achieved consistent results over the years. The only outlier to this pretty portrait is a 15% alcohol content that, although well absorbed by the wine's texture, does risk becoming a distraction. Exactly 28,666 bottles were made.

Undeniably pretty and slightly exotic, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a multifaceted bouquet of wild strawberry, fresh mint, balsam herbs, cloves and hints of sweet smoke. This is luxuriously silky and supple, enveloping the palate in ripe wild berry fruits, as a tantalizing inner sweetness and hints of tobacco forms toward the close. Saline-minerals add an almost-crunchy feel through the finish, and while tannic, it doesn't distract at all from the 2018’s graceful nature, yet also energetic, as notes of plum and licorice linger on and on. This is a spectacular Brunello of the vintage.

Dark, maturing ruby with orange tinges. Gingerbread, camphor and mint on the nose. Lush and ripe and with an unusual layer of exotic, sweet spice with hints of cardamom pod. That, however, cannot distract from the fact that the fruit is not super-fresh. (WS)