2020 Savennieres Roche Aux Moines Clos de la Bergerie

The first wine arrives. It is the 2020 Savennières Roche Aux Moines, 100% Chenin Blanc from Nicolas Joly’s Clos de la Bergerie. Interesting choice. Especially without knowing a customer’s palate or preferences. One of the pioneers of biodynamics and low-intervention wines, Joly is best known for his Coulée de Serrant, a white that tends to elicit highly polarized reactions. I’ve had mixed experiences, but I am always open to something new. In fact, that is what I crave most. Learning. I find the 2020 heavy, disjointed and too oxidative, with a distinct touch of residual sugar and a cider-like quality that is distracting. For me, there is no pleasure in this wine. Moreover, I find it completely dissonant with the food. I could see it working with richer main courses or cheese. At this place in the meal, it is decidedly awkward. Perhaps it will improve with air, I think. I hope.