NV Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts Vertical (99 05 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16)
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Tasting notes
2016 - 93-95♥Pts Allen Meadows - Don't miss! Outstanding There is just enough reduction to mask the underlying fruit but not the floral and spice nuances. Otherwise the dense, powerful and robust full-bodied flavors possess both super energy and minerality before delivering huge length on the balanced, austere and very tightly wound finale. This stunner is a classically styled Malconsorts that is made in a 'buy and forget you own it' style. Drink 2031+ (Jan 2018) 2015 - 95Pts Allen Meadows A notably ripe yet wonderfully fresh nose displays its super-spicy aromas of red currant, cherry, raspberry, green tea and lavender. There is terrific verve and power to the big-bodied, mineral-driven and concentrated flavors that deliver superb depth and length on the almost painfully intense finale. However, despite all of the concentration and overt muscularity this very, very firmly structured effort remains faultlessly well-balanced though note well that this is going to require an extended snooze in a cool cellar. This is reference standard Malconsorts though I feel the need to emphasize that it's presently so compact that it's pointless to open a bottle now. Drink 2035+ (Jan 2023) 2014 - 93♥Pts Allen Meadows - Outstanding A super-fresh and exceptionally cool nose of mostly red berry fruit scents possesses and impressively broad range of spice elements. There is first-rate vibrancy to the big, intense, powerful and muscular flavors that are almost pungently mineral-driven. As is usually the case with this wine chez Cathiard, it is robust and exceptionally firm yet there is nothing aggressive about the structure on the ripe and hugely long finale where a hint of bitter cherry pit arises. As the description would suggest however, it is pointless to open one of these beauties before it has at least 10 years of age. Drink 2029+ (Jan 2020) 2013 - 94♥Pts Allen Meadows - Outstanding A brooding and ultra-fresh nose exhibits notably ripe and strikingly complex aromas of dark cherry and raspberry along with violet, lilac and a gorgeous range of spice elements. This is a big and robust effort with excellent volume and mid-palate concentration that delivers plenty of punch and power on the overtly mineral-driven and hugely long finish. While this will be approachable after only 7 to 8 years it will need fully 15 to reach its full potential. Textbook Malconsorts though I stress that there is no point in buying this if you're not prepared to cellar it for at least 8 to 10 years. Drink 2025+ (Jan 2016) 2012 - 94♥Pts Allen Meadows - Outstanding There is plenty of Vosne-style spice in the form of inner mouth perfume along with soft floral and tea nuances. As one would expect from a first-rate example there is excellent volume, power and muscle to the intensely mineral-infused big-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the explosively long and impeccably well-balanced finish that goes on and on. This is flat out terrific though note that a minimum of 10 and probably 15 years will be required to fully realize the marvelous development potential. A classic Malconsorts of power and depth. Drink 2024+ (Jan 2015) 2011 - 93Pts Allen Meadows The overtly floral nose combines discreet oak and natural spice elements with cool red currant, plum and violet scents. There is excellent richness and power to the restrained and cool yet muscular big-bodied flavors that display a very firm minerality on the wonderfully complex finish that is shaped by notably firm but not hard tannins. This is a big and concentrated effort, particularly in the context of the 2011 vintage, and as such it is a wine that is clearly built to age. In a word, excellent. Tasted several times since release with consistent notes. Drink 2026+ (Oct 2022) 2010 - 95Pts Allen Meadows The restrained application of wood this displayed when I last reviewed it in 2013 (see herein) remains unobtrusive if not invisible and does not impede the expressiveness of the still ultra-fresh and gorgeously spiced black cherry and cassis infused nose. There is fine richness and power to the surprisingly supple middle weight flavors that possess excellent mid-palate density before culminating in a focused, exquisitely balanced and highly persistenct finish. This is already really quite harmonious and while it still has plenty of upside development potential remains, the outstanding balance and relatively fine-grained tannins could easily allow this beauty to be enjoyed now if desired. With that said though, if you wish to see it at full maturity, let is slumber for another decade. Tasted several times recently with consistent notes. Drink 2035+ (Apr 2024) 2009 - 94Pts Allen Meadows A ripe and perfumed nose offers up classic Vosne-style spice and ripe black fruit aromas that are trimmed in enough wood treatment to mention. The palate impression is definitely on the robust side as the powerful middle weight plus flavors possess excellent concentration on the focused, solidly structured and mildly austere finish that delivers very fine length. This is clearly built-to-age and while it could be enjoyed now, for my taste it will need another 8 to 10 years to reach its full potential. Drink 2027+ (Mar 2019) 2005 - 95Pts Allen Meadows Subtle traces of background wood and reduction frame overly spicy black and blue fruit plus rose petal and violet-infused floral aromas that are still notably primary. The wonderfully fresh, vibrant and powerful flavors are quite rich, robust and well-muscled though not rustic with copious amounts of dry extract that saturate the palate on the velvety and seductively textured finish that goes on and on. As I wrote when I first reviewed this that it could very well surprise to the upside and indeed it has done just that. Note too though that this is still at least a decade away from being really drinkable closer to 20 years away from full maturity so ample patience will still be required. Tasted twice since my original review (see herein) with similar if not exact results. Drink 2035+ (Oct 2018) 1999 - 94Pts Allen Meadows Though there are some mature notes in evidence, the expressive nose is still relatively primary with wonderfully spicy yet subtle aromas of black fruit, hoisin and soy that give way to rich, seductive flavors that are supported by rounded and ripe tannins, all wrapped in a gorgeously complex and highly persistent finish. While this could certainly be enjoyed now, for my taste I would suggest continuing to hold for a few more years. Either way, this is a very special Malconsorts that should continue to impress for many years to come. In a word, terrific. Drink 2017+ (Jul 2013)
Critic scores
Allen Meadows, Burghound