2018 Bourgogne Aligote Vieilles Vignes

Marsannay-based Domaine René Bouvier is one of the most exciting names in Burgundy. Bernard Bouvier (René’s son) has transformed the property since taking over in 1992 – doubling holdings, building a new winery, doing an immense amount of work in the vineyards (certified organic since 2013) and a gentle touch in the winery, his wines are brilliant and offer incredible value. When we visited to taste last year, we were wowed by this 2018 old-vine Aligoté. The “Vieilles Vignes” in question are 60 years old – from one 0.43-hectare plot in Morey-Saint-Denis and another 0.51-hectare plot in Couchey – creating a wine of extraordinary intensity, texture and tension. It’s undoubtedly their age, combined with Bouvier’s immense skill, that allowed him to make such a brilliant wine in 2018. Despite the warm vintage, this is taut and zippy, with sherbet freshness, the zing of bright Granny Smith green apple, grapefruit and lemon pith and crunchy pear. But there’s also an incredible density to the palate, with a creamy viscosity and round texture that makes this incredibly food friendly. Re-tasting it almost exactly a year later after our initial encounter, the wine has only improved – with a toasty hint and savoury finish. At just 12.5%, it’s gorgeously balanced. Aged half in stainless steel and half in larger, 600-litre old oak barrels, this is a wine that really punches above its weight.