2007 G-Max Collection (2006-2017)
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Tasting notes
Still very pale gold. From the colour you would have no idea that this is 18 years old. The fruit is so rich – lime, apricot, almost tropical and spicy – but all that richness doesn’t cover over the finely stony/smoky character and underlying fresh citrus notes. On the day after opening, this is even more dusty/smoky. In the mouth it tastes as if it is not fully dry because it is so rich, languorous and creamy and yet there is a bright line of acidity at its core. The texture is both creamy and chalky, highlighting the remarkable complementarity of deep fruit and minerality. This has aged beautifully and there is absolutely no hurry to drink it, unlike so many top dry German wines. At the very end, in the very last mouthful, a tiny suggestion of honeyed toastiness yet finishing dry. Magnificent. Shows how important it is to let the G-Max age, however impressive it is in youth. (JH)
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Plenty of smoke and sealing wax in the maturing nose, but with aeration also candied citrus. This is a powerful, medium- to full-bodied wine with a firm core on the palate. Behind the abundant structure is terrific mineral drive. As the wine aerates the tension grows at the very long finish. Drink or hold. At the Keller G-Max vertical tasting.
The 2007 Riesling G-Max came as the second wine in this blind tasting after the luscious 2005. It is cool, fresh and very precise on the nose with aromas of stone fruit, crushed rocks and spicy as well as salty/mineral notes. Elegant on the palate, it is very juicy but also spicy and very salty. More classic than the 2005, the 2007 develops impressively dense, spicy and savory as well as complex length. It is an expressive Riesling that is likely to be one of the best of the vintage. Tasted at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.
Tasted blind. There’s got to be a spoilsport at every party, and if at first the nose seemed only slightly subdued, the longer the wine was in the glass, the more it smelt of TCA. Fortunately it was to remain the only faulty specimen. (MS)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.