2018 Gevrey Chambertin Etelois
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Tasting notes
For the first time, Pierre Duroché has blended 30% whole bunch into his 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois, since he believes it will impart more freshness and complexity. But he told me that he wanted to remain prudent and add no more than that percentage to avoid reducing acidity too much. This whole-bunch addition works well on the nose, where flecks of black pepper and clove infuse the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and moderate depth, perhaps just missing a little depth and grip toward the finish. But it does deliver plenty of personality, and I look forward to revisiting it in bottle.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Bursting with aromas of raspberries, cherries, cassis and violets, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois is medium to full-bodied, layered and succulent, with fine concentration, lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, perfumed finish. From a small triangle of this village lieu-dit that sits between Griotte-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin, this parcel was planted between 1922 and 1956. It's always the insider's choice chez Duroché.
One of their earliest-picked vineyards. 20% whole bunch. Some of the parcel goes into the Gevrey village wine. Some vines planted 1964 and yielding only 20 hl/ha – lots of millerandage . Tank sample but about to be bottled. Darker fruited than Les Jeunes Rois, more subtle and lightly peppery, dark and rocky. Almost savoury with something like rock dust. Elegance in fruit flavour and very fine tannins though no lack of tannic structure thanks to so many small berries. (JH)
About the producer
Domaine Duroché has, under Pierre Duroché, become one of the most sought-out and respected wine domaines in Gevrey-Chambertin. The wines are delicate and detailed, yet with old-vine intensity, a clear sense of place and style – and it’s easy to see why they’ve rapidly become so in-demand.