2014 Vouvray Coteaux de la Bretonniere
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The 2014 Clos de la Bretonnière from Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups demonstrated how well Jacky Blot’s Vin de France can age. This pure, organically grown Chenin Blanc is cultivated in four hectares of heavy clay soils over limestone on the Première Côte in Vouvray, declassified since Blot vinifies the wine in Montlouis, which was outlawed by the INAO in the same year. It undergoes a natural ferment without any malo and is aged in around 20% new wood. The quality of this 2014 is an apt riposte to the INAO. It’s Vouvray through and through on the nose of dried honey, jasmine and lemon thyme, rich but beautifully defined. The palate is full of tension that effortlessly counterbalances the inherent richness, delivering white peach and nectarines and touches of chamomile toward the sensual finish. This is drinking beautifully now but will clearly give another decade of drinking pleasure, possibly more.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Mid greenish straw. There's something smoky about the nose – but I don't mean struck match; I mean the same sort of smell as a lit cigarette! Good, ripe fruit with a hint of passion fruit and very juicy. Interesting wine! Good balance. There is real evolution and interest here even if it is not a blockbuster. Quite subtle overall. (JR)
Made from a single plot in Vouvray, the Clos de la Bretonnière, since 2014 Jacky hasn't been allowed to call this Vouvray because it's vinified across the river at his winery in Montlouis. As such it is now a Vin de France. Ripe melon and cooked apples, loads of concentration and juice. Perhaps a bit more dilute than other vintages, but the oak integration is very delicious. (RH)
This site has more clay on the surface. It is much less open on the nose than the Rémus – less ripe but still aromatic with aroma of fresh pear. Deep and textured, power and refinement with excellent freshness. (JH)